Best price ETQ PG30P11 3,500 Watt 7 HP 208cc 4-Cycle OHV Propane Powered Portable Generator
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ETQ PG30P11 3,500 Watt 7 HP 208cc 4-Cycle OHV Propane Powered Portable Generator Description
ETQ Propane - powered 3,000 - watt Generator. Long - running, clean - burning... an all - around power performer! A Generator for all jobs! Perfect for emergencies, campsites, jobsites, and more. And, because it produces such a clean and steady current, you can even use it for computers and other sensitive electronics! Produces clear sine wave output... perfect for sensitive electronics like computers; 11 1/2-hr. run time @ 50% load; Single cylinder 4-stroke 208 cc engine; 3,000-watt continuous output, 3,500-watt surge output; Accepts a 20-lb propane tank; Noise level @ 23' is 60dB; Rated current is 25 amp @ 120 volts. Max current is 29.17 amp @ 120 volts; Measures 23 x 17 x 18". Weighs 103 lbs. Order yours today! Gas and diesel-powered items once gassed or oiled, cannot be returned to us. The manufacturer will require the customer to visit a qualified service center for inspection. WARNING: Gas-powered Engines / Generators cannot be shipped to California or Canada. Please check your State, County and City laws for restrictions before ordering Gas-powered Engines / Generators. ETQ Propane-powered 3,000-watt Generator
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ETQ PG30P11 3,500 Watt 7 HP 208cc 4-Cycle OHV Propane Powered Portable Generator Details
- Non-CARB Compliant/Not For Sale In California
- 20 pound propane fuel tank, fuel consumption of 11.5 hours @ 50% load
- Propane generator creates LPG eco-friendly energy
- ETQ 208cc 7HP OHV, air cooled
- ETQ's Sine Power delivers clean and steady current ideal for sensitive electronics
- Item Dimensions: 0 x 0 x 0 inches; 0 pounds
- Brand: Eastern Tools & Equipment
- Model: PG30P11
- Product Type: Lawn & Patio
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Customer Reviews
Eastern Tools & Equipment PG30P11 Review by Stevil "Stevil" (Portland, OR)
The generator arrived with the plastic air cleaner cover severely cracked. This seemed to be due to a somewhat flimsy/unprotected part, but primarily rough shipping. It is unlikely to get damaged during normal use. Anyway, a quick call to Amazon directed me to the manufacturer. The manufacturer Parts Dept offered to send me a replacement for free, and two weeks later it arrived. Fortunately, it was pretty easy to install, because the parts diagram in the owner manual is like a bad copy of a fax, and doesn't depict the air cleaner assembly anyway.
I hooked it up to an LPG tank and followed the instructions for a cold start in the manual, although the language was somewhat confusing (e.g. it took me a while to figure out that the "resistance air valve handle" referred to the choke.) After pulling the start handle multiple times, the best I could do was get it to run for maybe a second. Thinking I might have "flooded" the engine, I endeavored to remove the spark plug (the location of which is nowhere to be found in the user manual, although not hard to find if you are even remotely familiar with small engines,) where I discovered that the plastic plug cap was broken, although the electrical connection seemed to be fine. Using the included spark plug wrench was an adventure, because it requires considerable maneuvering to get it into the small space above the spark plug. The wrench handle was also too short to provide sufficient torque to unscrew the plug, so I resorted to using a long screwdriver through the wrench hole. That worked, but the thing still didn't start.
The next morning I tried again, but this time without going through the cold-start priming procedure, and it started immediately. It has been fine ever since. I tried out a few tools and lights as a load, and they all worked fine. The thing is quite noisy, but that was no surprise.
So, here's my summary:
The BAD:
1. Some parts flimsy
2. Owner's manual incomplete, confusing in places
3. Noisy
The GOOD:
1. Friendly, no-hassle customer service
2. It works, once you figure it out
3. Owner's manual and customer service info available online
4. One heck of a bargain- all it takes is avoiding having the freezer thaw out during one power outage to make it worthwhile
5. Doesn't stink like gas or diesel-powered generators
6. Basic tools included
The NEUTRAL:
1. It really needs wheels if you want to move it easily. I bought a cheap furniture dolly to wheel it around.
2. It would be nice if they had a way of securing an LPG tank to the unit away from the engine heat (on the generator side, maybe)
3. Requires small funnel with flexible and/or long spout to fill oil.
Eastern Tools & Equipment PG30P11 Review by Anonymous
If you are also considering the ETQ TG32P12 gas generator, note that this unit lacks 240V, the wheel kit, and all components that allow it to run off gasoline (carb, fuel tank, fuel shutoff). The TG32P12 supports up to 14A on each 120V leg (and 14A of 240V), whereas the PG30P11 supports 25A of 120V through the L5-30 receptacle and 20A of 120V through the GFCI receptacle. More useful if you attach more devices to a single cord, versus running multiple cords. The windings and control panel wiring of the PG30P11 are different to support the higher amperage, and it also comes with an analog voltmeter. What looks like a fuel tank on top is actually a stamped panel with a propane regulator mounted underneath. In place of the carb is a simple throttle body and choke. This would be a more comparable value to the TG32P12 if ETQ included the wheel kit, which doesn't seem separately orderable.
As with the TG32P12, if you remove the 3 bolts holding the pull starter assembly, you can rotate the handle one or two positions counterclockwise to put it in a better position and reduce wear on the pull cord. The manual is vague about when to press the propane priming button, how long, and use of the choke. After trying them, the generator became impossible to start. I removed the air cleaner cover and let it sit for a short while, then pulled again and it started. To make sure it wasn't a fluke, I shut it down and restarted it with the same procedure. Unless you're using it in extreme weather, just open the choke fully and pull, and gradually close the choke as it warms up and the idle stabilizes.
The factory wiring of the control panel is less than ideal. Looking at the schematic in the manual, the 20A and 25A circuit protectors are wired in parallel, meaning that you can connect devices to both the L5-30 and GFCI receptacles and attempt to draw a combined 45A. You can correct this by wiring the generator hot/black to the 25A protector, and the L5-30 and 20A protector on the load side. Wire the GFCI hot/black to the load side of the 20A protector. If the L5-30 receptacle draws more than 25A, the 25A protector trips and both receptacles are shut off. If the GFCI receptacle draws more than 20A, the 20A protector trips shutting off the GFCI receptacle but the L5-30 receptacle is unaffected. You can wire the voltmeter to the two unused upper terminals of the GFCI receptacle. If either protector or the GFCI trips, the voltmeter goes to zero indicating a problem.
Nonetheless, a great little portable generator.
Eastern Tools & Equipment PG30P11 Review by Stephen Smith (AL, USA)
I purchased this generator specifically for my 30 foot camper and so far I have been pleasantly surprised by it's performance and ease of use. It easily powers my 13,500 BTU AC with room to spare utilizing the 25Amp plug although you will need an adapter. It starts easily and is relatively quite for a generator of it's size although not as quite as some of the fully enclosed generators. The sound of the AC in the camper overpowered the sound of the generator; however, it may not be quite enough for a campground setting.
Utilizing propane vs gasoline is a definite plus when it comes to storage because propane doesn't degrade like gasoline.
One thing I would definitely recommend is following the break in schedule because the engine appears to ship with a small amount of light weight preservative oil. Additionally, I installed some wheels on the unit to make it easier to roll around.
One review mentioned being shocked; however, I have never experienced any shock from the unit. Perhaps the unit that produced the shock was defective in some way. I would definitely recommend grounding the unit so the GFCI can properly function.
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